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2019 RZR XP4 and 14′ Aluminum Tandem Axle Trailer Package
$3,000 in new parts and service in the last year and $1,00 in new parts waiting to be installed. This package is ready to hook on and go anywhere.
I’m the second owner and I have owned it since it 11/2019 when it only had 24 hours and 335 miles on it. Currently 174 hours and 2735 miles. Only selling because we are preparing to move.
Always serviced at Ride Now in Apache Junction. Not perfect but it sure cleaned up nice and almost looks new. A few scratches in the decals but nothing major.
It’s never been to the dunes and most miles are a mix of highway, forest service roads up North, Bulldog, and various other trails around Phoenix.
Never rolled, never ridden hard. We almost always had our dog along while riding.
Only 2 things I noticed cleaning it up is it will need a new passengers front seat belt which is fraying a bit and the drivers seat cover on the side is torn a bit.
Upgrades from stock:
Fuel 30” beadlock rims
Aluminum 2 piece roof
Bluetooth stereo and pod speakers
Front light bar
Toolbox
Cooler
Air pump
Spare belt
Over $3,000 in new parts and service in the last year alone.
10/2022 – Battery
3/2023- Tires QBT 30x10x15
7/2023 – Shock Therapy spring kit
7/2023 – Tier 2 service which included all fluids changed.
Over $1100 of new parts still I haven’t gotten around to installing that go with it.
$389 – XTC Self Canceling Turn Signal Kit
$299 – Samsung Tablet S6 Lite
$200 – Polaris brake pads
$75 – Wolfsnout Cool Cab Insulation Kit
$65 – Tablet Glove Box Mount
$49 – Fang Lights for Front
$35 – 2” Hitch Receiver Kit
Extremely nice tandem axle trailer I purchased new in 10/2020 to tow it behind our motor home and go camping with. It tows wonderful with the electric brakes in the mountains here and the furthest trip with the trailer was to Silverton, CO a few years back so not many mile on the trailer either.
Stealth Model: SPA0714TA2
78″x14′ inside dimensions
All Aluminum including decking
Recessed tie down anchors in 4 corners
Bifold aluminum drive on gate
Spare Tire
2-5/16” ball
7 pin wiring
Electric brakes
Large aluminum toolbox on front for extra gear storage
Dual propane tank setup for camping
Wooden box to hold extra gas cans
Tire ratchet straps for the RZR
Extra 2 sets of Erickson over the tire tie downs included if you want to go that route.
Nemisis wheel lock
1957 Dodge COE Custom Crewcab Cummins 2500 4×4
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1957 Dodge D500 Custom Crewcab on a 2007 5.9 Cummins 2500 4×4 Automatic Chassis with 274,000 miles. Rebuilt trans and engine runs great but frame is damaged. You can drive it around the neighborhood and free to have someone inspect the frame and see if they think it can be repaired.
I did not do the build but purchased it from the gentleman who did. He said it was a 1957 Dodge D500 COE that he used a 1956 D150 pickup back cab so he had the curve around back window in the crewcab. It’s mounted to a 2007 Dodge 2500 4×4 5.9 Cummins Automatic with I believe 274,000 miles. Build was done as a rat rod, not for a custom show truck.
I’ve put over $9000 in parts and labor ($4850 alone for tranny work, billet torque converter, extra deep transmission pan
new Mopar transmission throttle control valve) in redoing things the right way since I bought it from the original builder of it.
But I’ll be honest that I do not have the time to swap the frame so will be paying someone else to so it if I don’t sell it.
I purchased it without having it inspected and while a couple people said the frame repair should be fine I now know that someone cut the frame in the front and spliced it back and hence things are off just a bit. I originally thought they had straightened it and put some reinforcing plates in but that doesn’t appear to be the case. It still handled great on the freeway. Rather than trying to correct the tight clearance on the sway bar and track bar I’ve decided if I keep it I’m going to pay someone to swap the frame. I was also planning this for my daily driver so not taking any chances if I keep it.
AGAIN I’M NOT AN EXPERT BUT I WOULD SAY THE FRAME NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. Hence why I’m loosing money and priced it well below what I have into it.
If you want to keep the flatbed I think you would want to use a 140.5″ shortbed mega cab 2500 or 3500 4×4 frame.
Essentially from what I can tell the entire chassis, drivetrain, wiring is all stock 2007 Dodge for the most part. Minor modifications to accept the 1957 headlights and stuff like that.
Or really make it cool and swap a 3500 Dually 4×4 diesel frame under it.
Registered in Arizona as the 1957 Dodge D500 in my name. Being a D500 it is a commercial licensed vehicle in Arizona because it’s a 2 ton truck. I was told it doesn’t matter but does cost a little more per year for registration. Same registration as any 3500 or larger series truck they told me at the title place so you don’t need a CDL or anything like that. They just want extra tax money for the roads.
VIDEO LINKS
Link to extensive video of the truck sorry I apologize in advance for my poor video skills.
https://youtu.be/LGXXmTQsEQ4
Also video of what I’m seeing on the frame damage.
https://youtu.be/g9cQE284p28
PLEASE DON”T WASTE EITHER OF OUR TIME. Don’t just ask if it’s still available you won’t get a response. The reason I’m selling it is I don’t have the time to work on it. I’m not a mechanic, I’m a hobbyist. I’ve tried to spell out everything I’ve learned in the last 2 months. Ask relative questions not already covered here or in the video Provide a phone number to call back.
THIS IS A PROJECT STILL. Running driving project but I’ll go through what I know about it below. Drive it once you swap the frame as you work on it. It gets lots of attention as it is. Super cool and unique and how often do you find a 4×4 Diesel COE Crewcab. It took me years of looking but now realizing it’s going to take me years to finish up at the rate I’m moving on it.
PRICE IS FIRM. I don’t need to sell it and don’t really want to sell it. But I’m also not finding the time to work on it. I’m loosing too much money already and anything below $20,000 I’m just going to put towards paying for the frame swap.
PLEASE WATCH THE VIDEOS. I think I’ve gone over most of the bad and good in it. I’ll try to do a better one someday but it should go through what you will find if you come look at it. Again I’m trying to not waste either of our time, not just pitch the good points of it.
LIST OF NEW PARTS AND WORK I HAVE HAD DONE TO IT. OVER $9000 IN PARTS AND LABOR.
REBUILT AND UPGRADED 48RE transmission. ($4850 alone for tranny work)
Billet Torque Converter
Extra Deep Transmission Pan
New Mopar transmission throttle control valve
Engine professionally checked over.
Valve lash set
Oil Changed
Fuel Filter Changes
New intercooler hose at the turbo
Radiator Flushed and Filled
2 New Group 65 Batteries
New Front Shocks Bilstein 24-185776
New Front Shock Isolators
Used Stock Front Springs
New Front Brake Pads
New Front Brake Calipers
New Front Brake Rotors
New Front Brake Flexible Lines
New Front Left ABS Sensor
New rear ABS speed sensor
Canbus decoders for headlights (not installed yet).
New Control Arms (not installed yet)
HERE’S WHAT I KNOW IT NEEDS
So now I’ll give you some of the things that still need to be addressed first to make you realize it’s still a project. Great start and running and driving but I don’t have time to waste and I don’t want to waste yours.
1.) The frame in the drivers front has been repaired before and where I thought they just reinforced it I now know that in at least one spot it was cut to change the angle of it. It did drive straight, no death wobble, I’ve had it up just past 70 so far on the Interstate for about 50 miles. I did drive it to Good Guys the other week before I ground into the frame splice and can see it’s been fully cut in at least one spot and made the decision the frame would be swapped if I’m keeping it.
2.)The rear doors need windows and likely electric regulators since the door isn’t as wide as the front for the stock regulator . It’s flat glass so they can be custom cut by a guy in Mesa. I have test fitted some plexiglass windows in it for now.
3.)The rear doors are functional but personally I would redo them with suicide hinges and upgraded bearclaw type latches. And improve them for better sealing.
4.) No heat or A.C. yet but the compressor and condenser are there and some controls and he gave me the Vintage Air inside evaporator and fan unit for it. So it shouldn’t be hard to add.
5.) It looks like the lower ball joint nuts are cocked at times so I’m assuming it will need a set of steering knuckles also as those might be worn out. Might just be that they are not torqued properly but I assume the worst. The shop that did the springs say they are pretty sure the spindles are likely wallowed out some and recommend new or used spindles, ball joints, control arms, track bar basically redo it all and do it right.
6.) I replaced the front calipers and brakes but the rears should be done also if you keep these axles.
7.) I don’t like how he did the intercooler on an angle under it so I think it should be done similar to the 2013+ Ram’s with it vertical behind and below the bumper. I’m not a diesel guy but that’s my thinking.
8.) Intercooler piping, boots, and clamps need to be checked over. There’s a short pipe coming off the intercooler that does not have a flange on it and the clamps are just t-bolt clamps where I think they should be compression spring t-bolts. I did blow the hose off the end of that the one time I really got on it so doubled up the clamp there for now.
9.) All lights function but he said that the LED headlights go out or flicker every now and then. I read that these have a canbus system on them that does not like LED lights so I have the decoders and wiring but haven’t had time to redo it all. While it functions I would redo all the splices he put in if I was keeping it
10.) A couple times I have had the chime when you brake but hasn’t done so recently. I’m guessing it’s light related from what I have read. Maybe due to the third brake light he mounted or might be because the flatbed has all LED lights. Again that wiring should probably be redone in the cab and go from there.
11.) Second battery still needs to be mounted down. For now I have it in the drivers side toolbox but long term would probably mount it under the cab or something.
12.) I reworked the cold air intake some but personally I think it needs something better and maybe remount the radiator overflow and get the air filter closer to the front.
And then finish it to your liking or not finish it and just keep it a rat rod.
Now the good and cool parts of it since I haven’t scared you off yet.
It’s a very cool and unique truck. You definitely get lots of looks and honks in the couple times that I have driven it. You’ll definitely be the only one with one of these. I haven’t driven it far and I have only ran up to 70 mph so far but overall it drives nice as is without the ball joints and suspension fully looked over yet.
Registered in Arizona as the 1957 Dodge D500 in my name.
It’s mounted on a 2007 Dodge 2500 4×4 with the Cummins 5.9 and I believe the 274,000 miles is correct.
The 2007 Cummins starts great even when cold, new dual batteries, 2007 wiring harness is stock, turbo, chassis and so on. He used the original radiator, air conditioning condenser, and trans cooler by the looks of it. So you have a completely modern chassis with the last of the 5.9 Cummins without all the emissions which is always desirable..
REBUILT AND UPGRADED 48RE transmission. The transmission has been professionally rebuilt in Apache Junction with a new billet torque converter and a new extra deep pan added at the time since I was planning on towing with it. Also replaced the transmission throttle control valve with a new Mopar one. $4850 alone for all that work.
Engine was professionally checked over, oil changed, and valve lash set. They replaced the intercooler hose on the turbo and suggested I get a better cold air intake for it. It starts and runs great from what I can tell but it is the first diesel I have ever had.
The original builder had cut the front springs and it sat way too low. I had a shop put back in a stock set of springs and Bilstein 5100 series shocks in front to get it back to stock height.
Also completely new front brake calipers, flexible lines, rotors, and pads.
Fairly new Rancho shocks in rear installed by the previous owner.
275/70/18 Cooper Discovery AT3 tires, great tread, DOT Date code 12/21.
Runs nice, no death wobble, I’ve only driven it a bit and only about 50 miles down the interstate at 70 mph. Figure I want to get everything else cleaned up in the suspension and intercooler before pushing it much.
The 57 and 56 look pretty solid but I’m no expert. Slight rust through on the drivers side and passenger side cab floors where the wheel well hump is in the front that someone fiberglassed over. He did say it took him a long time to find a good 56 cab for the back half.
So most of the major work has been done. Yes there’s plenty to do still but it’s a perfect rat rod as it is and you can use it and enjoy it as you finish it off. That’s what attracted me to it because I could finish it the way I wanted. I just am not finding the time to do it unfortunately.
DIMENSIONS – APPROXIMATE
Overall Length 18′-8″ (224″)
Wheelbase 11′-8″ (140″)
Width at Running Boards 6′-8″ (80″)
Width at Flatbed 7′-4 (88″)
Height to top of Horn 8′-2″ (98″)
Height to top of running board 1′-7″ (19″)
Flatbed Width 7′-0 (84″)
Flatbed Length 8′-9″ (105″)
Flatbed Inside width 6′-5 (77″)
The Pink Flamingo in Arizona 